Monday 9 September 2013
A Change
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Thursday 18 April 2013
Foxcroft and Ginger, 3 Berwick Street
Not many things happen that change the face of humankind for ever: wars, space exploration,
archaeological finds, to name a few. But now we can add another to the list. A second coming. Not of Jesus but, instead, a first ever re-review. Foxcroft and Ginger are the lucky soles who get to bask in the glory. This guide and in turn the world has changed, it will never be the same again.
My first review of Foxcroft was back in Autumn 2011, a lot of things have happened since then. I won't go into all of them because well, some are personal and not to be shared across these pages. One change that I will write about though, is the rise of Berwick Street as a lunchtime destination. Hungry workers, travellers and layabouts flock to a vibrant market where purveyors of street food have descended offering all kinds of tempting lunchtime treats. For the greedy amongst us, it's a dream. For the established restaurants, and cafes its a frickin nightmare. How do you compete against competitors who can turn up for a few hours a day, pay a minimal pitch fee, then leave when the lunchtime rush is over? With no rent to worry about, they are free to chase the crowds. Pitch at one market one day, another the next. It is a highly attractive business plan, one for which you can't blame the stall holders for jumping on board in their droves. However the cafes and restaurants need to find a way to survive, and Foxcroft and Ginger has found a way.
Foxcroft started by redesigning the layout. Interior design is not my thing, but I am sure there were long and excitable conversations about what colours they could add, what pictures they could put on the walls, and where to place extra cushions. All important stuff, but in the end what they did was move the counter 90 degrees, and squeeze some more tables in. It worked. The end result is more space for sitting and thankfully more space for standing while waiting for your lunch.
Their next move was the food, the important bit as far as we are concerned. This was much more subtle than their interior design restructuring. Just a few tweaks here and there to consolidate what were already good sandwiches, but good is not perfect and perfection is what we all strive for.
Sandwiches are beautifully simplistic - a filling of whatever you want, held together by two slices of bread or two halves of a crusty roll - nothing could be easier. As with all things that are so simple quality of ingredients is paramount. You must start with good bread. Foxcroft bake their own. Its sourdough and it's excellent. Job done. Next the fillings. We live in a modern world, times have changed, our palates have evolved. No longer are we satisfied with an unripe tomato, a leaf or two of limp lettuce and a few slices of mature cheddar. We can make those run of the mill, dreary sandwiches at home on a rainy weekend. We want to be spoilt when venturing out for lunch, tempted by sandwiches where the chef has put care, effort, and a little sweat, (preferably none in the sandwich) into creating the fillings. This is where Foxcroft excels. Every sandwich they offer tempts you. Whether it is the slow roasted pork and pickled vegetables; the halloumi, bechamel and mushroom; the buttermilk fried chicken; or the formidable ham and cheese French toast with honey mustard dressing. All of them are exceptional sandwiches, proper sandwiches. Sandwiches that restore my faith in humanity.
If that wasn't enough, then there is more good news. All the sandwiches cost £4.50 to takeaway and £5.50 to eat in. That's value for money that you cannot compete with. Change from a fiver, in these times, that's absurd. If you are even thinking of not going then you are a fool, and nobody likes a fool. I beg you to rethink, because if you don't you will be hungry and lonely. As all your friends will have left you to go to Foxcroft to try their extraordinary sandwiches.
Rating: 4.5/5
Cost: £
archaeological finds, to name a few. But now we can add another to the list. A second coming. Not of Jesus but, instead, a first ever re-review. Foxcroft and Ginger are the lucky soles who get to bask in the glory. This guide and in turn the world has changed, it will never be the same again.
My first review of Foxcroft was back in Autumn 2011, a lot of things have happened since then. I won't go into all of them because well, some are personal and not to be shared across these pages. One change that I will write about though, is the rise of Berwick Street as a lunchtime destination. Hungry workers, travellers and layabouts flock to a vibrant market where purveyors of street food have descended offering all kinds of tempting lunchtime treats. For the greedy amongst us, it's a dream. For the established restaurants, and cafes its a frickin nightmare. How do you compete against competitors who can turn up for a few hours a day, pay a minimal pitch fee, then leave when the lunchtime rush is over? With no rent to worry about, they are free to chase the crowds. Pitch at one market one day, another the next. It is a highly attractive business plan, one for which you can't blame the stall holders for jumping on board in their droves. However the cafes and restaurants need to find a way to survive, and Foxcroft and Ginger has found a way.
Foxcroft started by redesigning the layout. Interior design is not my thing, but I am sure there were long and excitable conversations about what colours they could add, what pictures they could put on the walls, and where to place extra cushions. All important stuff, but in the end what they did was move the counter 90 degrees, and squeeze some more tables in. It worked. The end result is more space for sitting and thankfully more space for standing while waiting for your lunch.
Their next move was the food, the important bit as far as we are concerned. This was much more subtle than their interior design restructuring. Just a few tweaks here and there to consolidate what were already good sandwiches, but good is not perfect and perfection is what we all strive for.
Sandwiches are beautifully simplistic - a filling of whatever you want, held together by two slices of bread or two halves of a crusty roll - nothing could be easier. As with all things that are so simple quality of ingredients is paramount. You must start with good bread. Foxcroft bake their own. Its sourdough and it's excellent. Job done. Next the fillings. We live in a modern world, times have changed, our palates have evolved. No longer are we satisfied with an unripe tomato, a leaf or two of limp lettuce and a few slices of mature cheddar. We can make those run of the mill, dreary sandwiches at home on a rainy weekend. We want to be spoilt when venturing out for lunch, tempted by sandwiches where the chef has put care, effort, and a little sweat, (preferably none in the sandwich) into creating the fillings. This is where Foxcroft excels. Every sandwich they offer tempts you. Whether it is the slow roasted pork and pickled vegetables; the halloumi, bechamel and mushroom; the buttermilk fried chicken; or the formidable ham and cheese French toast with honey mustard dressing. All of them are exceptional sandwiches, proper sandwiches. Sandwiches that restore my faith in humanity.
If that wasn't enough, then there is more good news. All the sandwiches cost £4.50 to takeaway and £5.50 to eat in. That's value for money that you cannot compete with. Change from a fiver, in these times, that's absurd. If you are even thinking of not going then you are a fool, and nobody likes a fool. I beg you to rethink, because if you don't you will be hungry and lonely. As all your friends will have left you to go to Foxcroft to try their extraordinary sandwiches.
Rating: 4.5/5
Cost: £
Monday 18 March 2013
Soho's Best Falafel
Falafel. Fa-lof-ful. Falla-fel. There seems to be as many variations in pronouncing the word Falafel as there are variations in each different restaurants recipe. Some are a bright green colour, others a light, afternoon in the sun, tan colour, some contain seeds in the crust, others just trust the deep frying to bring all the flavour and crispness needed. Whatever your preference, you can feel safe in the knowledge that when walking the streets of Soho your ideal falafel is not far away. However with anything that is popular, disappointing incarnations quickly arrive. Before you know it you have purchased some falafel that are not only flavourless but also dry and crumbly. A quick peruse of this guide will hopefully put you on the the right track.
Let us begin at 59 Broadwick Street. This isn't an easy place for me to go. Food Secret used to live here, it no longer does. The wounds are still raw, I may never get over it but I will try. In its place lives Comptoir Libanais. A Lebanese restaurant and deli, offering mezze, tagines, wraps and salads and of course falafel. The falafel here is a little pricey £4.65 for 3, and if wanting to mix that with a salad then its likely to set you back £7.50 to £8.50 depending on which salad. Even the wrap is £6.75. In my book that's expensive for a wrap. The old adage that you get what you pay for is often true in the food industry, unfortunately it is not here. The falafel though not dry, is not packed with as much flavour as I would like. Very few herbs to speak of and only a delicate lick of spice. Fills a hole in your stomach but doesn't leave a lasting memory. Rating: 3/5
Sticking with the authentic Lebanese restaurants, next stop is Yalla Yalla at 1 Greens Court. I have already reviewed them, so if interested in what they offer besides falafel click here. The falafel here is similar in appearance to that offered by Comptoir, a light tan colour, not very heavy on the herbs, but the flavour is a little better. The mix of spices come through much more and they are cheaper too - £4 for 3. Add a side salad of tabbouleh or fattoush and you are looking in the region of £8. The falafel wrap on the other hand is £4, much better value, but for me there needs to be more flavour in the falafel otherwise it is all a little bland. Rating: 3.2/5
Next we move to the melting pot of cuisine that is Berwick Street market. Italian, Vietnamese, Indian and Mexican food can all be found here, and thankfully so can falafel. The market stall in question is called Falafel No.1. Not one to be duped by clever marketing, I shall decide for myself whether this is indeed the No.1 Falafal. The menu is limited, probably due in part to the lack of space. They are functioning out of a small converted garden shed. An impressive conversion but a little limiting when it comes to menu options. Your choices are a small or large wrap. Three, hand made and almost cooked to order falafels in the small. Five in the big. Each come with the usual suspects - houmous, aubergine, salad etc etc. £5 for the large. Don't ask about the cost of the small, no one's interested, why have three when you can get five. The falafel is good, flavoursome and moist. An excellent falafal wrap worthy of bracing the wind that gusts down Berwick street market. A few more menu options, such as the chance to just have falafal and salad would be a bonus. I guess we will have to wait until they can expand, maybe into a converted summer house or large gazebo. Rating: 3.5/5
Fourth on the list is Maoz, on Old Compton Street. A vegetarian fast food restaurant specialising in falafel. Maoz claim to be world experts when it comes to falafel. A bold claim. A claim that needs to be investigated. An investigation that I will happily take on. Entering Moaz and trying to leave with food items which are not falafel is nigh on impossible. You could plump for a Moaz sandwich - pita with falafel or you could choose a salad box this also come with falafel and obviously salad, as much salad as you can cram into your flimsy cardboard takeaway receptacle. That is pretty much all your options, pita or salad. Sometimes only having two choices makes life easier. True, but it also makes life dull. All those negatives aside, a positive is that the falafal is good. Almost the best, but not quite. Although they are abundant with herbs they are a touch greasy, not much but a touch. And while we're being picky they are also a little small, barely a bite, one chomp and there gone. It's a delicious mouthful mind, just short. Rating: 4/5
Last and by no means least is Hummus Bros, 88 Wardour Street. This too has already been reviewed but I did not take into account the falafel. Due to the obvious fact that if you go to Hummus Bros then you should really try the hummus, which I did. This time round though, it's all about the falafal. I'll give you a clue, it's good. I will go as far as to say it's the best falafal that Soho offers. It wins on two points. First and most importantly is taste. A crisp crust, containing a smattering of spices gives way to a succulent full flavoured herb heavy interior. This is falafal how I like it, packed full of taste while bringing texture to the table too. Second is variety. How you have your falafal is entirely up to you. Perhaps you want nothing but falafal (5 for £1.75) or perhaps you want a falafal salad with Tzatziki and tomato and coriander salsa (£3.20) or maybe you want individual falafal but with a salad on the side: a Greek salad (£3) or possibly tabbouleh (£2.50). No not enough choice well could I tempt you with a falafal wrap (£4.95). The possibilities are endless, it is only your imagination that will hold you back. So Hummus Bros may specialise in hummus but they seem to be mighty fine at producing falafal too. Hummus Bros seems to be the Westminster Abbey of the chick pea world, they all want this to be there final resting place. It is a honour for chick peas to be turned into falafal at Hummus Bros, and it is a privilege to eat them Rating: 4.5/5
So there we have it. Soho's best falafal can be found at 88 Wardour Street. Go there in your droves. But not on weekends when the prices go up.
Let us begin at 59 Broadwick Street. This isn't an easy place for me to go. Food Secret used to live here, it no longer does. The wounds are still raw, I may never get over it but I will try. In its place lives Comptoir Libanais. A Lebanese restaurant and deli, offering mezze, tagines, wraps and salads and of course falafel. The falafel here is a little pricey £4.65 for 3, and if wanting to mix that with a salad then its likely to set you back £7.50 to £8.50 depending on which salad. Even the wrap is £6.75. In my book that's expensive for a wrap. The old adage that you get what you pay for is often true in the food industry, unfortunately it is not here. The falafel though not dry, is not packed with as much flavour as I would like. Very few herbs to speak of and only a delicate lick of spice. Fills a hole in your stomach but doesn't leave a lasting memory. Rating: 3/5
Sticking with the authentic Lebanese restaurants, next stop is Yalla Yalla at 1 Greens Court. I have already reviewed them, so if interested in what they offer besides falafel click here. The falafel here is similar in appearance to that offered by Comptoir, a light tan colour, not very heavy on the herbs, but the flavour is a little better. The mix of spices come through much more and they are cheaper too - £4 for 3. Add a side salad of tabbouleh or fattoush and you are looking in the region of £8. The falafel wrap on the other hand is £4, much better value, but for me there needs to be more flavour in the falafel otherwise it is all a little bland. Rating: 3.2/5
Next we move to the melting pot of cuisine that is Berwick Street market. Italian, Vietnamese, Indian and Mexican food can all be found here, and thankfully so can falafel. The market stall in question is called Falafel No.1. Not one to be duped by clever marketing, I shall decide for myself whether this is indeed the No.1 Falafal. The menu is limited, probably due in part to the lack of space. They are functioning out of a small converted garden shed. An impressive conversion but a little limiting when it comes to menu options. Your choices are a small or large wrap. Three, hand made and almost cooked to order falafels in the small. Five in the big. Each come with the usual suspects - houmous, aubergine, salad etc etc. £5 for the large. Don't ask about the cost of the small, no one's interested, why have three when you can get five. The falafel is good, flavoursome and moist. An excellent falafal wrap worthy of bracing the wind that gusts down Berwick street market. A few more menu options, such as the chance to just have falafal and salad would be a bonus. I guess we will have to wait until they can expand, maybe into a converted summer house or large gazebo. Rating: 3.5/5
Fourth on the list is Maoz, on Old Compton Street. A vegetarian fast food restaurant specialising in falafel. Maoz claim to be world experts when it comes to falafel. A bold claim. A claim that needs to be investigated. An investigation that I will happily take on. Entering Moaz and trying to leave with food items which are not falafel is nigh on impossible. You could plump for a Moaz sandwich - pita with falafel or you could choose a salad box this also come with falafel and obviously salad, as much salad as you can cram into your flimsy cardboard takeaway receptacle. That is pretty much all your options, pita or salad. Sometimes only having two choices makes life easier. True, but it also makes life dull. All those negatives aside, a positive is that the falafal is good. Almost the best, but not quite. Although they are abundant with herbs they are a touch greasy, not much but a touch. And while we're being picky they are also a little small, barely a bite, one chomp and there gone. It's a delicious mouthful mind, just short. Rating: 4/5
Last and by no means least is Hummus Bros, 88 Wardour Street. This too has already been reviewed but I did not take into account the falafel. Due to the obvious fact that if you go to Hummus Bros then you should really try the hummus, which I did. This time round though, it's all about the falafal. I'll give you a clue, it's good. I will go as far as to say it's the best falafal that Soho offers. It wins on two points. First and most importantly is taste. A crisp crust, containing a smattering of spices gives way to a succulent full flavoured herb heavy interior. This is falafal how I like it, packed full of taste while bringing texture to the table too. Second is variety. How you have your falafal is entirely up to you. Perhaps you want nothing but falafal (5 for £1.75) or perhaps you want a falafal salad with Tzatziki and tomato and coriander salsa (£3.20) or maybe you want individual falafal but with a salad on the side: a Greek salad (£3) or possibly tabbouleh (£2.50). No not enough choice well could I tempt you with a falafal wrap (£4.95). The possibilities are endless, it is only your imagination that will hold you back. So Hummus Bros may specialise in hummus but they seem to be mighty fine at producing falafal too. Hummus Bros seems to be the Westminster Abbey of the chick pea world, they all want this to be there final resting place. It is a honour for chick peas to be turned into falafal at Hummus Bros, and it is a privilege to eat them Rating: 4.5/5
So there we have it. Soho's best falafal can be found at 88 Wardour Street. Go there in your droves. But not on weekends when the prices go up.
Thursday 15 November 2012
Tapped and Packed, 193 Wardour Street
New places make me feel uneasy, there are always new rules to contend with - how to order, where to order, where to wait, when to pay. Its a minefield of potential faux pas. These quirky changes are all employed to make new establishments feel cool and edgy so they stand out from the crowd. I have never been edgy or hip or even slightly cool. I've tried, it doesn't suit me, however sometimes I find myself in places where I feel I need to be in order to fit in. This is how I felt in Tapped and Packed. I felt in order to belong here I should perhaps have been wearing colourful skinny jeans, a mismatched woollen jumper, and odd shoes. I even think that I should have cycled to get here, but that would be crazy as I don't own a bike and I am only 50 doors away. Did I mention that there is a tree stump in the middle of the room. No, well there is. It acts as a table. All so very hip.
I like the old adage "If its not broken don't fix it", it seems the owners/designers of Tapped and Packed do not. As an obvious attempt to feel edgy they have decided to situate the two service counters, one for coffee the other for food, diagonally across from each other as though they are two magnets repelling each other. An unnecessary oddity because for me coffee and food generally go hand in hand or side by side, plus I had no idea where to stand while waiting for my coffee having paid for and collected my sandwich. I chose one end of the coffee counter, obviously it was the wrong end. Idiot. Curse my social awkwardness, I just want to buy a sandwich and a coffee, I don't want to have to contend with social obstacles that cause me to trip up and look clownish, I can do that on my own.
The staff are all very friendly and helpful. They are of course all pretty trendy people, who descended on me with that abrupt, in your face politeness which makes even the most confident person a little weary. Still I feel I managed to compose myself and held my own, even engaging them in a little bit of conversation, a chatette if you will. The type of chat you have with your postman or even a rarely seen but quite normal and generally good natured neighbour. Nothing too formal, just a few pleasantries to avoid coming across as rude. On requesting a little advice as to which of the sandwiches he would suggest, the staff member helpfully pointed me towards the salami and brie baguette, saying it is excellent toasted if you have the machinery to do so. Sadly they do not offer it in store, a trick missed I feel as most sandwiches benefit from the little added texture that toasting brings. Having the ability to toast the baguette, I duly did and I can report that it is indeed excellent toasted. I can also report the the BLT is an excellent sandwich, soft white bread, crisp lettuce, salty bacon and juicy tomatoes and the addition of what seems to be a paprika based condiment is a touch of class. I recommended getting two, partly because they are delicious, but also because they are on the small side as are most of the sandwiches. You get what you pay for though as on average they cost around £3.50, not expensive, though unfortunately not filling either. Still I guess it allows you to slim down and perhaps one day fit into a pair of skinny jeans, or failing that you could just buy some cake.
So if you want to get the most out of a trip to Tapped and Packed, I would like to suggest you do a few things. Cycle to get there if possible, be overtly friendly with the staff, buy two sandwiches and some cake, forget those skinny jeans, everyone wears them, remember individuality is cool. Order a coffee, a piccolo , flat whites are over. Follow these simple rules and you will be destined to enjoy your excursion to Tapped and Packed.
Rating: 3.3/5
Cost: £
Opening Times: Mon - Fri 8-7, Sat 10-6
http://tapcoffee.co.uk
I like the old adage "If its not broken don't fix it", it seems the owners/designers of Tapped and Packed do not. As an obvious attempt to feel edgy they have decided to situate the two service counters, one for coffee the other for food, diagonally across from each other as though they are two magnets repelling each other. An unnecessary oddity because for me coffee and food generally go hand in hand or side by side, plus I had no idea where to stand while waiting for my coffee having paid for and collected my sandwich. I chose one end of the coffee counter, obviously it was the wrong end. Idiot. Curse my social awkwardness, I just want to buy a sandwich and a coffee, I don't want to have to contend with social obstacles that cause me to trip up and look clownish, I can do that on my own.
The staff are all very friendly and helpful. They are of course all pretty trendy people, who descended on me with that abrupt, in your face politeness which makes even the most confident person a little weary. Still I feel I managed to compose myself and held my own, even engaging them in a little bit of conversation, a chatette if you will. The type of chat you have with your postman or even a rarely seen but quite normal and generally good natured neighbour. Nothing too formal, just a few pleasantries to avoid coming across as rude. On requesting a little advice as to which of the sandwiches he would suggest, the staff member helpfully pointed me towards the salami and brie baguette, saying it is excellent toasted if you have the machinery to do so. Sadly they do not offer it in store, a trick missed I feel as most sandwiches benefit from the little added texture that toasting brings. Having the ability to toast the baguette, I duly did and I can report that it is indeed excellent toasted. I can also report the the BLT is an excellent sandwich, soft white bread, crisp lettuce, salty bacon and juicy tomatoes and the addition of what seems to be a paprika based condiment is a touch of class. I recommended getting two, partly because they are delicious, but also because they are on the small side as are most of the sandwiches. You get what you pay for though as on average they cost around £3.50, not expensive, though unfortunately not filling either. Still I guess it allows you to slim down and perhaps one day fit into a pair of skinny jeans, or failing that you could just buy some cake.
So if you want to get the most out of a trip to Tapped and Packed, I would like to suggest you do a few things. Cycle to get there if possible, be overtly friendly with the staff, buy two sandwiches and some cake, forget those skinny jeans, everyone wears them, remember individuality is cool. Order a coffee, a piccolo , flat whites are over. Follow these simple rules and you will be destined to enjoy your excursion to Tapped and Packed.
Rating: 3.3/5
Cost: £
Opening Times: Mon - Fri 8-7, Sat 10-6
http://tapcoffee.co.uk
Tuesday 16 October 2012
Tongue n Cheek, Berwick Street Market
The humble burger, the American cousin of our beloved sandwich, who we have made welcome ever since it first arrived on our shores in the 1950's. As loved as they have always been, their popularity now is as high as ever, thanks mainly to the rise of the 'gourmet' burger. Use of the word gourmet to describe foods unsettles me
but there is a simple rule to follow. If anyone uses the word gourmet then undoubtedly what they are trying to sell you is not.
What better place than London then, for the burger to go from being a Pauper to a Prince. A London where new fads are welcomed as often as Big Ben chimes. A London where groups and 'secret' events will be set up for the sole purpose of discussing with irritating seriousness, the most recent craze. A London where uniqueness is championed, then copied until it is no longer unique and as a result is deemed commercial and as a result becomes undesirable. This is the London where the burger can climb to new heights.
With the recent surge in the popularity of street food in London, this has allowed the burger to take centre stage. Each burger stall that has popped up has their own take on what they consider to be the finest burger, none more so than Tongue n Cheek. They are an Italian food inspired street trader who are championing the lesser used cuts of meat such as ox tongue, ox heart and pig cheeks. Their speciality is the heart breaker burger, named as such due to the combination of ox heart and 60 day aged beef.
The heart breaker really is a very meaty burger thanks mainly to the top quality beef - supplied by Nath the butcher from the Butchery Ltd - but also because the inspired choice to add ox heart gives it a much fuller flavour. The burger comes in three forms, original with cheese, the chimicurri, which I have yet to try mainly because I can't help but order the 3rd burger, the belly connection. They also do a porky sub -slow cooked pig cheeks in a port reduction served with coleslaw. Its good but not a patch on the burgers. The cheesy is what we all expect of a classic burger, cheese, lettuce and pickles mustard and ketchup. An excellent burger for £5. To be honest if this was the only burger they did I would be very content. The burgers meaty and juicy, really juicy, messy juicy but in a good, mop up the juices later way. The cheese is cheesy, its cheddar so you can't go wrong. All in all an exceptional burger, I would say you'll have to go a long way to find a better burger, but you don't. All you have to do is allow your eyes to drift a little to the right on the menu to spot the Belly connection. This is a game changer of a burger. Pimento mayo, pickled red onion, rocket, the meaty juicy heart breaker burger, Gorgonzola, and to top it all off a couple of slices of fried belly pork. Good lord its good, dangerously addictive good. Its so moreish you would think it should be illegal. All for £6.50. That is cheap for what is effectively Class A food.
One little gripe, I would like a better bun to house the burger. A nice bread roll verging on the sweetness of brioche that has been given the privilege of a long slow fermentation would probably make this the best burger in the world, for now though, it is the best burger in London.
Rating: 4.6/5
Cost: ££(£)
Open: Wed and Thurs Lunchtimes Berwick Street market. Other various streets throughout the week
Twitter: @tonguencheeks
but there is a simple rule to follow. If anyone uses the word gourmet then undoubtedly what they are trying to sell you is not.
What better place than London then, for the burger to go from being a Pauper to a Prince. A London where new fads are welcomed as often as Big Ben chimes. A London where groups and 'secret' events will be set up for the sole purpose of discussing with irritating seriousness, the most recent craze. A London where uniqueness is championed, then copied until it is no longer unique and as a result is deemed commercial and as a result becomes undesirable. This is the London where the burger can climb to new heights.
With the recent surge in the popularity of street food in London, this has allowed the burger to take centre stage. Each burger stall that has popped up has their own take on what they consider to be the finest burger, none more so than Tongue n Cheek. They are an Italian food inspired street trader who are championing the lesser used cuts of meat such as ox tongue, ox heart and pig cheeks. Their speciality is the heart breaker burger, named as such due to the combination of ox heart and 60 day aged beef.
The heart breaker really is a very meaty burger thanks mainly to the top quality beef - supplied by Nath the butcher from the Butchery Ltd - but also because the inspired choice to add ox heart gives it a much fuller flavour. The burger comes in three forms, original with cheese, the chimicurri, which I have yet to try mainly because I can't help but order the 3rd burger, the belly connection. They also do a porky sub -slow cooked pig cheeks in a port reduction served with coleslaw. Its good but not a patch on the burgers. The cheesy is what we all expect of a classic burger, cheese, lettuce and pickles mustard and ketchup. An excellent burger for £5. To be honest if this was the only burger they did I would be very content. The burgers meaty and juicy, really juicy, messy juicy but in a good, mop up the juices later way. The cheese is cheesy, its cheddar so you can't go wrong. All in all an exceptional burger, I would say you'll have to go a long way to find a better burger, but you don't. All you have to do is allow your eyes to drift a little to the right on the menu to spot the Belly connection. This is a game changer of a burger. Pimento mayo, pickled red onion, rocket, the meaty juicy heart breaker burger, Gorgonzola, and to top it all off a couple of slices of fried belly pork. Good lord its good, dangerously addictive good. Its so moreish you would think it should be illegal. All for £6.50. That is cheap for what is effectively Class A food.One little gripe, I would like a better bun to house the burger. A nice bread roll verging on the sweetness of brioche that has been given the privilege of a long slow fermentation would probably make this the best burger in the world, for now though, it is the best burger in London.
Rating: 4.6/5
Cost: ££(£)
Open: Wed and Thurs Lunchtimes Berwick Street market. Other various streets throughout the week
Twitter: @tonguencheeks
Thursday 4 October 2012
Pizza Pilgrims, Berwick Street Market
Yet another arrival on the ever buzzing Berwick Street Market, Pizza Pilgrims have one aim - to make the most authentic tasting Neapolitan pizzas. To be honest they may have other aims too, don't we all have dreams, but I am not aware of what these might be. So, for simplicity's sake let us believe that authentic Italian pizzas are all that matters to them, now and forever.
In order to achieve this aim the pilgrims went on a pilgrimage (can you see what they've done there, very clever) to Italy to learn how to make the very best pizza from those who invented it in the first place. Just sounds like an excuse to go on holiday to avoid working though to be fair it seems to have been fruitful, they are now indeed making pizzas. Holiday or not it worked.
Now all that seems pretty sensible. What seems less sensible is the idea to build an oven in the back of their van. They haven't gone and stuffed an everyday electrical kitchen oven in the back, that would just be silly, they have instead built a proper wood/gas burning oven, that can reach temperatures up to 400 degrees. Though I can't fault their ingenuity, I am starting to wonder if the pilgrims aren't as smart as I first thought.
It seems the Pilgrims don't do things by half which bodes well for the pizzas. Most days this consists of 3, they vary from time to time to keep things interesting, for us and I guess themselves. Of course first on the menu is the Margarita. A classic, and a prerequisite for anyone making authentic Italian pizzas. This is always there, and it costs a very reasonable £5. The other two are the specials so to speak. They chop and change depending on the wind. Not strictly true the wind has nothing to do with it. It depends on what they fancy making and what ingredients they have. Favourites are the Nduja (spicy sausage), marinara (garlic, oregano) and portobello mushroom with smoked garlic, all £6. The pilgrims keep to the Italian pizza covenant that less is more when it comes to ingredients. Don't go expecting 10 different toppings, unless of course you bring your own! The quality of ingredients is paramount when keeping things simple, and the Pilgrims don't let us down. All ingredients are gathered fresh daily from Berwick street market, guaranteeing quality and flavour. Pizzas are not all about toppings though. A good base is as important to a pizza as hair on a cat. Cut corners here and your pizza will never fulfil its full potential. I am glad to say no corners have been cut. The dough is given a proper fermentation, allowing it to develop an ever so slightly sour taste, that is rare with most pizzas. Plus the the use of the authentic style oven gives the cooked base that characteristic stone baked/charred taste. If I had one slight criticism, it is crispness. It is chewy and toasty crisp in places but I would prefer a little more crunch. This is being very picky though as for something that is cooked in the back of a van it is near perfect.
With all good things though there is a catch. Unfortunately with street food vendors, it is always the same catch, sporadicity. They are always too keen to up sticks and set up stall elsewhere for a day, or 2. Musical festivals are the main draw, which I guess is understandable, a choice between the side of a road or a field with music and drunkards with money to spend on your wares is not a difficult decision. Its just unfortunate that on some days your pizza fix will have to wait. Fortunately these pizzas are worth the wait, so don't be too sad. Plus they generally keep their fans updated via twitter, so you'll be able to plan ahead.
Rating: 4.5/5
Cost: ££
Open: Generally Mon -Fri, 12 till 3ish
Pizzapilgrims.co.uk
In order to achieve this aim the pilgrims went on a pilgrimage (can you see what they've done there, very clever) to Italy to learn how to make the very best pizza from those who invented it in the first place. Just sounds like an excuse to go on holiday to avoid working though to be fair it seems to have been fruitful, they are now indeed making pizzas. Holiday or not it worked.
Now all that seems pretty sensible. What seems less sensible is the idea to build an oven in the back of their van. They haven't gone and stuffed an everyday electrical kitchen oven in the back, that would just be silly, they have instead built a proper wood/gas burning oven, that can reach temperatures up to 400 degrees. Though I can't fault their ingenuity, I am starting to wonder if the pilgrims aren't as smart as I first thought.
 |
| The Peerless Margherita |
With all good things though there is a catch. Unfortunately with street food vendors, it is always the same catch, sporadicity. They are always too keen to up sticks and set up stall elsewhere for a day, or 2. Musical festivals are the main draw, which I guess is understandable, a choice between the side of a road or a field with music and drunkards with money to spend on your wares is not a difficult decision. Its just unfortunate that on some days your pizza fix will have to wait. Fortunately these pizzas are worth the wait, so don't be too sad. Plus they generally keep their fans updated via twitter, so you'll be able to plan ahead.
Rating: 4.5/5
Cost: ££
Open: Generally Mon -Fri, 12 till 3ish
Pizzapilgrims.co.uk
Thursday 27 September 2012
Banh Mi11, Berwick Street Market
How things change. If you were to wander down Berwick Street market this time last year then you would have been greeted by only a smattering of food stalls. Frankly if you weren't in the mood for a bagel or fried rice then the likelihood is you would need to wander further afield to get your lunchtime food fix. Fast forward a year and if anything there's almost too much choice. The bagels and fried rice dishes are still there and are still worth anyone's money, but now you can get burgers, pizzas, Indian wraps, burritos and thanks to Banh Mi11 Vietnamese baguettes, noodle salads and soups. Its a greedy mans paradise.
Banh Mi11, (for those wondering the 11 stands for "11 bites of love" which is apparently how many mouthfuls you get when devouring a Banh Mi baguette. I haven't tested this, I trust them) is quickly becoming one of the success stories of the London street food scene. They have stalls at Eat St Kings Cross, Broadway market, Clapham Common and of course Berwick Street. Plus they are even trialing a permanent shop in Shoreditch, which is sure to be successful especially if they serve Vietnamese coffee then I am sure the hipsters would flock like pigeons to Trafalgar Square.
Whats their secret? Simplicity, freshness and quality of ingredients. You have a choice of 6 fillings for your baguette or noodle salad - pork belly, BBQ pork, catfish fillet, coconut and lemongrass chicken, Tofu and Steak with pear BBQ sauce. All cost £5 to £6 for the baguette, as do the noodle salads depending on whether you go for medium or large. The large is a generous size, I haven't tried the medium, for the obvious reason that it is not the large. Both the baguettes and noodle salads come with carrot, daikon (radish) pickle, coriander and cucumber. With the noodle salad however you get the added extras of peanuts, iceberg lettuce and dried shallot. It takes the salads to the next level, a level above the baguettes. Plus with the salads I reckon at a rough guess you're getting over 20 possibly as many as 30 bites per portion. I don't need to tell you that 20 and indeed 30 is more than 11, your smart enough to figure that out for yourselves. One slight word of caution, you will be asked how hot you want it. If you say hot, be prepared, it is. We're talking 'licking the sun' hot.
Banh Mi11 doesn't promise the world, it promises Vietnamese street food, and that's what you get, freshly prepared and delicious.
Rating: 3.5/5
Cost: ££
Open: Mon - Fri 11-3
www.banhmi11.com
Banh Mi11, (for those wondering the 11 stands for "11 bites of love" which is apparently how many mouthfuls you get when devouring a Banh Mi baguette. I haven't tested this, I trust them) is quickly becoming one of the success stories of the London street food scene. They have stalls at Eat St Kings Cross, Broadway market, Clapham Common and of course Berwick Street. Plus they are even trialing a permanent shop in Shoreditch, which is sure to be successful especially if they serve Vietnamese coffee then I am sure the hipsters would flock like pigeons to Trafalgar Square.
 |
| A large Noodle Salad |
Banh Mi11 doesn't promise the world, it promises Vietnamese street food, and that's what you get, freshly prepared and delicious.
Rating: 3.5/5
Cost: ££
Open: Mon - Fri 11-3
www.banhmi11.com
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